From The Archives
Feast In The Making (2007) #106
6/7/2007 | 27m 30sVideo has Closed Captions
Riverview Cafe in Brattleboro; Jasper Hill Farms in Greensboro; Elements in St. Johnsbury
Host Sean Buchanan visits the Riverview Cafe in Brattleboro, Vt., whose menu is filled with local culinary delights; Jasper Hill Farms in Greensboro, Vt., an old dairy farm rebuilt into an artisan cheese making operation; and another famed local establishment, Elements in St. Johnsbury, Vt
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From The Archives is a local public television program presented by Vermont Public
From The Archives
Feast In The Making (2007) #106
6/7/2007 | 27m 30sVideo has Closed Captions
Host Sean Buchanan visits the Riverview Cafe in Brattleboro, Vt., whose menu is filled with local culinary delights; Jasper Hill Farms in Greensboro, Vt., an old dairy farm rebuilt into an artisan cheese making operation; and another famed local establishment, Elements in St. Johnsbury, Vt
Problems playing video? | Closed Captioning Feedback
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Learn Moreabout PBS online sponsorship>> HI, I'M SEAN BUCHANAN.
NEXT ON "FEAST IN THE MAKING" -- >> WE HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO VOTE EVERY DAY.
>> WE HEAD TO THE HILLS OF GREENSBORO, VISIT JASPER HILL FARMS.
SEE WHAT GOES INTO MAKING THEIR POPULAR ARTISAN CHEESES.
THEN WE HOP OVER TO ELEMENTS RESTAURANT, ST.
JOHNSBURY, WHERE THEY STRIVE TO GIVE DINERS A TRUE TASTE OF THE NORTHEAST KINGDOM YEAR-ROUND.
ALONG THE CONNECTICUT RIVER IN BRATTLEBORO, THE RIVERVIEW CAFE OFFERS GREAT, INSPIRED CUISINE THAT IS AFFORDABLE, TASTY, AND SUPPOTS THE LOCAL AGRICULTURAL COMMUNITY.
>> THIS PROGRAM WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY A GRANT FROM THE UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, RURAL DEVELOPMENT.
>> IF YOU TRAVEL UP NORTH, PASSED THE FARMS AND HUNTING CAMPS AND ENDLESS WILDERNESS, YOU MAY COME ACROSS TWO BROTHERS MAKING A WORLD CHEESE WITH A NEW MINDSET.
JASPER HILL FARMS HAS INNOVATION, CARE, AND A BELIEF THAT ARTISAN CHEESE-MAKING CAN KEEP DAIRY FARMS IN BUSINESS FOR GENERATIONS TO COME, WITH LOWER MILK PRICES AND HIGHER COSTS, DAIRY FARMERS HAVE THE LATEST CASUALTIES IN THE BATTLE TO PRESERVE THE FAMILY FARM.
WHAT'S THE ANSWER?
WHAT'S THE SAVING GRACE?
NOBODY KNOWS.
BUT HERE'S A GROUP OF COMMITTED FARMERS WHO KNOW WITH HARD WORK AND DETERMINATION THEY CAN REKINDLES PEOPLE'S LOVE AND IMAGINATION OVER A SLICE OF CHEESE.
>> CHEESE-MAKING IS REALLY AN EXTENSION OF OUR LIVES.
THE WAY THAT MILKING COWS IS YOU KNOW, JUST PART OF A LIFESTYLE FOR DAIRY FARMERS, IT HAPPENS EVERY DAY.
IT HAPPENS TWICE A DAY.
IT HAPPENS CHRISTMAS.
IT HAPPENS WHEN YOU ARE SICK.
AS LONG AS YOU ARE STANDING, YOU KNOW, YOU HAVE TO MILK THOSE COWS.
WELL, WE ARE TAKING A STEP BEYOND MILKING COWS.
WE PROCESS OUR MILK SEVEN DAYS A WEEK, 365 DAYS A YEAR INTO A PRODUCT, WHICH IS ABLE TO SUSTAIN OUR FAMILIES AND OUR FARM.
>> IN 1998, MATEO AND HIS BROTHER, ANDY KEILLOR PURCHASED JASPER HILL FARMS, A DEFUNCT DAIRY OPERATION LOCATED IN THE HILLS OF GREENSBORO, VERMONT.
AFTER EXPLORING A FEW DISASTROUS IDEAS TO SUPPORT THEIR RURAL LIFESTYLE, THEY SETTLED ON FARMSTEAD CHEESE-MAKING.
IN JULY OF 2002, THEY PURCHASED 15 HEFERS AND BEGAN THEIR ADVENTURE IN SUSTAINABILITY AGRICULTURE.
[PHONE RINGING] >> JASPER HILL FARMS -- >> IT'S REALLY A FAMILY RUN BUSINESS BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT HAVE SUCCEEDED WITHOUT OUR TWO WIVES.
WHEN WE FIRST STARTED, IT WAS JUST MATEO AND MYSELF, AND WE WERE RUNNING OURSELVES INTO THE GROUND.
THERE WERE NOT ENOUGH HOURS IN THE DAY TO EVEN GET CLOSE TO GETTING EVERYTHING DONE.
SOME HOW WE TWISTED OUR WIVES' ARMS JUST RIGHT, AND THEY QUIT HELP US, AND THAT'S REALLY WHEN OUR BUSINESS TURNED AROUND.
>> IN JUST A FEW SHORT YEARS, JASPER HILL FARMS DEVELOPED AND SUCCESSFULLY MARKETED SEVERAL TYPES OF FARMSTEAD CHEESE.
THE TECHNIQUE OF NATURAL AGING GIVES THEIR PRODUCT A UNIQUE AND SOUGHT-AFTER TASTE.
JASPER HILL FARMS MAKES JUST A FEW VARIETIES OF RAW MILK CHEESE, BUT THEY MAKE THEM WELL.
>> SO WHAT DO WE HAVE HERE?
>> HAS CONSTANT BLISS.
IT'S MADE WITH FRESH, UNCOOLED EVENING MILK.
>> SMOOTH.
>> YEP.
>> REAL MILKY.
>> JUST REALLY, REALLY CREAMY.
EXCELLENT.
>> CONSTANT BLISS IS MADE WITH FRESH, RIGHT FROM THE COW, RAW, WHOLE MILK, AND IS AGED FOR 60 DAYS BEFORE IT LEAVES THE FARM.
UP NEXT WAS A WINTER CHEESE, WRAPPED IN A SLIVER OF SPRUCE BACK THAT IMPARTS A WOODY FLAVOR DURING THE AGING PROCESS.
>> IT'S REALLY NICE.
IT'S SOFTER, MORE MELLOWER, HAS A NICE, ACIDIC BACKBONE.
EXCELLENT.
WHAT'S LEFT?
>> SO THIS IS THE CHEESE THAT YOU ARE MOST FAMOUS FOR, RIGHT?
>> THIS IS THE WORK HORSE ON OUR FARM.
ABOUT 70% OF OUR PRODUCTION GOES INTO HIDDEN BLUE.
>> WOW.
SO YOU CAN ALREADY TELL RIGHT OFF THE BAT THAT THERE IS A LOT MORE CRUMBLY.
>> WE ARE REALLY LOOKING AT CREATING CHEESES WHICH SHOWCASE OUR MILK, AND BAILEY IS UNIQUE IN TERMS OF THE BLEU CHEESES, IN THAT IT'S NOT A WACKY, UPSIDE THE HEAD.
>> NO, NO.
IT'S SURPRISINGLY REALLY SWEET ACTUALLY.
IT'S REALLY SWEET.
YOU TASTE, YOU KNOW, THE NICE ROMAN OF THE BLUE.
IT HAS A LOT OF CHARACTERISTICS, BUT NOT OVER THE TOP.
>> NOT AT ALL.
YOU CAN STILL TASTE THAT MILKYNESS.
>> FOR SURE.
>> THE FLAVOR OF ALL JASPER HILL FARMS FARM CHEESES, VARIES BASED ON THE FLAVOR OF THE MILK.
>> CHEESE-MAKING IS LIKE WINE-MAKING.
EXCEPT WE HAVE A VINTAGE EVERY DAY.
WE CELEBRATE THE CONCEPT.
WE ARE EMBEDDING OUR PROCESS IN THE TASTE OF PLACE.
WE DON'T STANDARDIZE OUR MILK.
WHATEVEROUR COWS EAT WILL BE A PART OF THE FLAVOR PROFILE OF OUR CHEESE.
SO OUR CHEESES ARE FUNDAMENTALLY DIFFERENT IN THE SUMMERTIME THAN IN THE WINTERTIME.
>> ALL OF JASPER HILL FARMS CHEESE IS MADE WITH THE MILK FROM THEIR HERD OF 40 CALVES.
THIS SCOTTISH BREED IS RED AND WHITE AND SUITED FOR THE VERMONT HARSH CLIMATE.
THESE LADIES ARE MILKED TWICE A DAY, AND THEY ARE FANTASTIC CHEESE-MAKING COWS.
>> HERSHIRES, HAVE PARTICULARLY GOOD MILK PROFILE FOR CHEESE-MAKING.
THEIR FLAT GLOBULES ARE SMALL, WHICH MAKES THEM MORE EASILY BROKEN DOWN.
WE DON'T TRY TO SQUEEZE EVERY BIT OF MILK OUT OF OUR COWS.
THEY ARE NOT PUSHED.
WE ARE A QUALITY DRIVEN ORGANIZATION, AND WE ARE LOOKING TO MAKE THE CLEANEST MILK THAT WE POSSIBLY CAN.
>> ALTHOUGH JASPER HILL FARMS IS THE CHEESE SUCCESS IN THE WORLD OF ARTISAN CHEESE-MAKING, THEY ARE FAR FROM CONTENT.
>> INITIALLY, WE ASSUMED THAT IF WE COULD DEMONSTRATE THAT YOU COULD MAKE A GOOD LIVING MILKING 40 COWS, THAT ALL KINDS OF PEOPLE WOULD BE INTERESTED IN DOING WHAT WE ARE DOING.
BUT WE FOUND REALLY IS THAT IT'S MORE WORK, AND THERE IS COMPLEXITY BEYOND THE ABILITIES OF MANY.
SO WE ARE TAKING OUR EXPERIENCES AS A START-UP, AND STARTING ANOTHER COMPANY TO, ESSENTIALLY, LOWER THE BARRIERS TO ENTRY FOR FOLKS THAT ARE INTERESTED IN GETTING INTO THIS BUSINESS.
THEIR SOLUTION TO EXPAND ON THEIR ALREADY SUCCESSFUL AGING FACILITY AND MAKE IT ACCESSIBLE TO OTHER CHEESE-MAKERS IN THE AREA.
>> WE ARE PUTTING AN 18,000 SQUARE FOOT UNDERGROUND CHEESE-MAKING FACILITY.
>> THAT'S LIKE A BOX STORE, A HUGE AMOUNT OF SPACE.
>> IT'S BIG.
IT'S ALL UNDERGROUND.
BASICALLY, WE ARE GOING TO HAVE A SERIES OF SEVEN UNDERGROUND, VAULTED CELLARS THAT WE'LL BE ABLE TO MATURE JUST ABOUT ANYTHING THAT VERMONT FARMSTEAD CHEESE-MAKERS CAN COME UP WITH.
BASICALLY, WHAT THIS IS GOING TO ALLOW CHEESE-MAKERS TO DO IS FOCUS ON CHEESE-MAKING.
THEY ARE NOT GOING TO HAVE TO DEAL WITH THE AGING, WHICH IS THE MOST LABOR INTENSIVE PART OF AN OPERATION LIKE OURS, AND THE MOST CHALLENGING, WHICH IS THE MARKETING, SALES AND DISTRIBUTION, SO WE ARE REALLY LOOKING TO LOWER THE BARRIERS TO ENTRY AND MAKE VALUE ADDED, ON-FARM PRODUCTION A MODEL THAT CAN HELP TO SUPPORT THE RURAL LANDSCAPE.
>> AND REALLY BY LIMITING THOSE, IT ALLOWS PEOPLE TO GET INTO THE CHEESE BUSINESS WHO MAYBE HAVEN'T BEEN INVOLVED IN IT, AN EXISTING PRODUCERS TO LOWER THEIR COST, SO THEREFORE, IT'S REALLY JUST HELPING VERMONT CHEESE PRODUCERS BECOME NATIONALLY KNOWN, AT LEAST ON A BIGGER LEVEL THAN WHAT THEY ARE NOW.
>> EXACTLY.
>> JASPER HILL FARMS HAS A REPUTATION FOR CONSISTENCY AND QUALITY THAT HAS LANDED THEIR CHEESE ON THE MENUS OF THE BEST RESTAURANTS AND CHEESE COUNTERS IN THE COUNTRY.
LOCALLY, JASPER HILL FARMS CHEESE CAN BE FOUND IN A FEW RESTAURANTS, AND IF MOST CO-OPS.
AS FAR AS ANDY AND MATEO, THERE IS A VAST MARKET FOR CHEESE THAT IS UNDERSERVED DUE TO A LACK OF PRODUCTION.
THE GOAL OF JASPER HILL FARMS IS MUCH LARGER THAN MAKING GREAT CHEESE.
THEY WANT TO CREATE A BUSINESS MODEL THAT CAN BE REPLICATED BY OTHER SMALL FARMS INTERESTED IN PRODUCING A VALUE ADDED PRODUCT.
>> OUR MISSION WAS TO CREATE WORKING SOLUTIONS FOR DAIRY FARMERS IN VERMONT.
WE LOVE THE WORKING LANDSCAPE HERE.
THE CHARACTER OF THAT PATCHWORK OF FORESTS AND FIELDS THAT IS DISAPPEARING.
WE ARE LOSING TO URBAN SPRAWL AND DEVELOPMENT.
IT IS AT THE HEART OF WHAT WE ARE TRYING TO SAVE.
>> JASPER HILL FARMS IS REDEFINING THE POTENTIAL OF VALUE ADDED FARM PRODUCTION HERE IN VERMONT, BUT WITH NATIONAL SUCCESS, VERMONT FARMERS AND CHEESE-MAKERS WILL ALWAYS DEPEND ON LOCAL SUPPORT.
>> WE HAVE THE OPPORTUNITY TO VOTE WITH OUR FORKS EVERY DAY.
BY SUPPORTING YOUR LOCAL FARMERS, WHETHER IT'S THEY ARE GROWING VEGGIES OR DAIRY OR GROWING CRANBERRIES OR WHAT HAVE YOU, YOU ARE MAKING A STATEMENT OF VALUES, REALLY, AND THE OPPORTUNITY TO DO THAT HAPPENS THREE TIMES A DAY.
SO, PERHAPS, THE LOCAL AREA IS TAKING IT A STEP BEYOND, BUT THERE ARE LOTS OF OPPORTUNITIES TO REALLY STEP UP AND SUPPORT PRODUCERS LIKE OURSELVES.
OUR PRODUCTS ARE NOT CHEAP, BUT ONE THING IS, THAT'S IMPORTANT TO UNDERSTAND IS THAT THEY ARE EXPENSIVE TO MAKE.
WE TRY AND PROVIDE OUR CUSTOMERS WITH VALUE FOR MONEY, BUT BY, YOU KNOW, VOTING WITH YOUR FORK AND SUPPORTING LOCAL PRODUCTION, YOU ARE REALLY EMBEDDING YOURSELF IN THE LANDSCAPE, AND, YOU KNOW, EATING IT, AS WELL.
>> PEOPLE USUALLY DON'T THINK OF A TRENDY NEIGHBORHOOD IN THE NORTHEAST KINGDOM, BUT IN ST.
JOHNSBURY, ELEMENTS IS ALL THE RAGE.
THIS OLD MILL TURNED INTO A HIT BISTRO KEEPS SEATS FULL AND DINERS HAPPY, FROM THE LOCAL INGREDIENTS AND MUSHROOMS HARVESTED TO THE END DIVE SECRETLY GROWN BY ONE OF THEIR CUSTOMERS.
THIS PUTS ST.
JOHNSBRY IN MY EYE ON THE SKY.
>> WHEN PULLING INTO THE PARKING LOT, YOU SEE THIS LARGE NON-DESCRIPT KIND OF BUILDING TUCKED AWAY ON AN OLD MANUFACTURING STREET.
THIS BUILDING WAS A FUNCTIONING, WOOD-WORKING MILL UNTIL THE 1970s.
WE HAD THE RIVER OUTSIDE WHICH PRODUCED THE POWER NEEDED FOR THE BUILDING.
WE LEFT ALL THE OLD TURN BUCKLES AND THE MACHINE WORKS UP IN THE RAFTERS, WHICH GIVES IT A REAL NICE FEEL LIKE YOU ARE EATING IN A PLACE WITH REAL HISTORY ALREADY.
BESIDES JUST BEING A RESTAURANT.
THE MENU AT ELEMENTS CHANGES ON A WEEKLY BASIS, AND CHEF RYAN O'MALLEY SPECIALIZES IN SHOWCASING LOCAL PRODUCTS, REGARDLESS OF THE SEASON.
WE VISITED ELEMENTS IN JANUARY, AND CHEF O'MALLEY DECIDED TO PREPARE A SALAD WITH LOCALLY GROWN ENDIVES AND AMOUNTS FROM THE ORCHARDS AND JASPER HILL FARMS BLEU CHEESE.
THE SALAD WILL BE SERVED WITH PAN SEERED RAVIOLI STUFFED WITH GOAT CHEESE AND MUSHROOMS.
>> HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THIS CHEESE FOR PEOPLE OUT THERE FLAVOR-WISE?
>> IT DEFINITELY IS A STRONGER BLEU CHEESE.
IT'S GOT A REAL FARMY TASTE TO IT.
BUT WHAT YOU ARE ACTUALLY GETTING THERE IS A LOT OF THE NATURAL FLAVORS OF THE AREA IN WHICH IT IS PRODUCED.
THIS IS A GRASS-FED CHEESE, SO YOU ALWAYS GET THAT EARTHY QUALITY TO IT.
WHEN YOU EAT THE FOOD, ESPECIALLY HERE AT ELEMENTS, AND ESPECIALLY VISIBLE THROUGH CERTAIN DISHES, YOU CAN REALLY UNDERSTAND THE AREA.
BASICALLY, THE RELATION BETWEEN TASTE AND THE GROUND FROM WHICH THE FOOD IS COMING, AND YOU MIGHT NOT BE ABLE TO NOTICE IT IN EVERY LITTLE THING IF YOU HAD A BIT OF THIS ENDIVE OR A BIT OF THIS APPLE, BUT ALL OF IT TOGETHER -- >> ONCE YOU PUT IT TOGETHER YOU HAVE THIS FLAVOR THAT YOU ARE NOT GOING TO BE ABLE TO REPRODUCE ANYWHERE ELSE.
THAT'S SOMETHING THAT I REALLY LOVE ABOUT IT.
IT'S A GREAT, UNIQUE THING.
AND THIS FLAVOR WILL BE UNIQUE TO VERMONT BECAUSE, YOU KNOW, AS I SAID, JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING THAT WE'RE SERVING HERE TODAY IS PRODUCED LOCALLY HERE IN STATE.
>> ALL OF THE INGREDIENTS IN THE ENDIVE SALAD WERE LOCAL, EXCEPT A COUPLE OF CHOPPED WALNUTS ADDED FOR A CRUNCH.
THE SALAD WAS TOPPED WITH APPLE CIDER AND SHALLOT VINAIGRETTE.
NOW THAT WE KNOCKED OUT THE FIRST DISH WE ARE GOING WORK ON RAVIOLIS.
>> I AM GOING TO CHOP,/PULVERIZE THIS.
THIS IS A GREAT THING TO HAVE IN THE WINTER.
THEY WILL BE POPPING UP AROUND MAY AND APRIL.
SO WHAT I AM GOING TO DO IS CHOP THEM UP.
AND THIS IS GOING TO BE PART OF OUR STUFFING.
FOR THE RAVAGEOSE AND ALSO OUR BASE FOR THE SAUCE FOR THE RAVIOLIS.
>> AND WITH ALL MUSHROOMS YOU USUAL WANT TO HYDR H HAI DRATE .
>> YES.
AND YOU NEVER WANT TO FLOW AWAY THE WATER BECAUSE THE FLAVOR IS CONCOCTED RIGHT THERE.
>> AND YOU FOUND A WAY TO UTILIZE BOTH.
>> YES, IN THIS BUSINESS YOU NEED TO LEARN HOW TO USE EVERYTHING.
>> THE BITS ARE ADDED TO A PAN OF WATER AND HEATED TO EXTRACT THE FLAVOR FROM THE DRIED MUSHROOM.
THE MUSHROOM TEA WILL BE USED AS THE BASE FOR THE SAUCE, AND THE MORRELL PIECES WILL GO INTO THE RAVIOLI STUFFING.
>> SO NOW WHILE WE HAVE GOT THAT GOING, WE ARE GOING TO MOVE ONTO ROLLING OUT THE PASTA DOUGH.
THIS IS THE FUN PART.
WHAT I HAVE RIGHT HERE IS A PASTA DOUGH THAT I HAVE ALREADY MADE.
BASICALLY WHAT IT IS JUST ABOUT YOUR MOST AVERAGE, BASIC PASTA DOUGH RECIPE OUT THERE.
>> THEY DON'T VARY TOO MUCH.
>> THEY DON'T, NO.
>> NOT ON THE INTERNET OR GET A COOKBOOK -- >> NO, RIGHT IN THERE.
AND WHAT I HAVE DONE IN HERE IS I HAVE MIXED IN SOME B PULVERIZD SHANTRELLS HARVESTED FROM LAST YEAR, AND THAT MAKES THE SPECKS THERE.
>> STARTING ON THE WIDEST OPENING THE PASTA GETS ROLLED OUT INTO A THIN LAYER FOR THE RAVIOLI.
YOU WANT TO ROLL OUT A SHEET LONG ENOUGH TO GET BOTH A TOP AND BOTTOM LAYER FOR THE RAVIOLIS.
AFTER A FEW MINUTES OF BOILING WATER, OUR MUSHROOM TEA WAS READY.
IT WAS TIME TO SCOOP OUT THE MORRELL PIECES FOR THE STUFFING AND BEGIN THE SAUCE.
THESE MUSHROOMS NOW ARE SO SOFT AND TENDER.
IT'S LIKE THEY WERE FRESH, AND A LOT OF PEOPLE LIKE THE FRESH MORRELL, WHICH HAS A DIFFERENT CHARACTERISTIC, IT'S NUTTIER.
I PERSONALLY LOVE THE DRY.
I LIKE ALL MUSHROOMS THAT ARE DRIED.
I THINK THAT THEY SOMETIMES HAVE THAT MORE INTENSE FLAVOR.
>> QUITE OFTEN IT DOES CONCENTRATE THE FLAVORS OVER THE TIME.
WHAT'S LEFT IN THE PAN RIGHT THERE WILL BE THE BASIS FOR MY SAUCE.
>> EXCELLENT.
>> I AM GOING TO STIR IN A BIT OF CRIME THAT I HAVE REDUCED DOWN.
>> SO PROBABLY MAYBE, YOU KNOW, WHEN YOU BUY HEAVY CREAM, MAYBE THREE TIMES AS MUCH CREAM?
>> YEP, THREE TIMES AS MUCH DREAM AS YOU ARE GOING TO NEED SAUCE.
IT WILL BE PLENTY.
>> WHILE THE SAUCE WAS REDUCING, WE MIXED OUR MORRELL PIECES WITH HALF A CUP OF LOCAL GOAT CHEESE AND SHREDDED CARROTS FOR COLOR AND TEXTURE.
>> YOU ARE MAKING A LITTLE GOAT CHEESE FILLING LIKE THIS, OFTEN YOU ARE DOING MORE MASHING THAN STIRRING.
>> Y.
>> WHATEVER IT TAKES TO GET THAT SPATULA RIGHT IN THERE.
>> AND A LOT OF PEOPLE WHEN THEY MAKE, YOU KNOW, RAVIOLI FILLING, THEY STICK TO THE R RICOTTA, AND GOAT CHEESE IS AN EXAMPLE OF TAKING A VERMONT PRODUCT AND USING IT IN A DIFFERENT WAY.
IT HAS THE MORE PUNCHIER FLAVOR YOU ARE LOOKING FOR.
>> WHAT I SAY HERE IS WE HAVE GLOBAL CUISINE WITH A LITTLE YANKY INGENUITY.
THERE IS ONE SHEET RIGHT HERE, AND WE ARE GOING TO MAKE FOUR.
>> IF IT'S THE FIRST TIME YOU ARE DOING IT USE LESS FILLING.
>> OH, YES.
>> THAT'S THE FIRST THING, THEY PUT TOO MUCH IN IT, AND YOU PRESS IT OUT, AND IT GETS MESSY.
>> OKAY.
>> A HALF THERE.
>> OKAY.
>> TWO SPOONS CAN BE USED TO FILL THE RAVIOLIS, WHEN IT IS IN PLACE, BRUSH WATER WHERE YOU WANT TO CREATE THE SEAMS FOR EACH PIECE.
THE WATER ACTS AS A GLUE BETWEEN THE TOP AND BOTTOM LAYER OF PASTA.
>> THEY HAVE GOT ALL SORTS OF FANCY MACHINES AND RAVIOLI STUFFERS OUT THERE, BUT MOST OF WHAT I DO HERE HAS A LITTLE HOME-SPUN NATURE TO IT.
>> AND UNLESS YOU ARE MAKING THOUSANDS OF RAVIOLIS A WEEK, DON'T BUY THIS STUFF.
ALL YOU NEED IS A GOOD PASTA-MAKER.
>> I WOULD RATHER SHOW PEOPLE HOW TO MAKE IT WITH THE TOOLS THAT THEY HAVE.
>> ONCE THE TOP AND BOTTOMS OF THE RAVIOLI ARE SECURE, THEY ARE COOKED IN BOILING WATER FOR A COUPLE OF MINUTES.
SO ABOUT TWO MINUTES, AND WE TAKE THEM OUT, AND WHAT DO YOU HAVE THIS ICE WATER FOR?
>> BASICALLY WHAT THAT IS, AN ICE WATER BATH THAT WE ARE GOING TO SHOCK THE PASTA IN.
IT, BASICALLY, JUST ARRESTS THE COOKING PROCESS, AND IT GIVES YOU THE TIME, ALL THE TIME THAT YOU NEED TO MOVE ONTO THE NEXT PROCESS AFTER THIS.
I COULD SAUTE THEM RIGHT NOW OR I COULD DO IT TOMORROW.
THIS IS SOMETHING THAT COULD BE DONE AHEAD OF TIME.
>> SO IF YOU ARE HAVING COMPANY OVER.
>> YES, ALWAYS WHEN YOU HAVE A PARTY, DO IT WELL AHEAD OF TIME.
>> YES!
>> WHEN YOU MAKE HOMEMADE PASTA FOR PEOPLE, THEY LOVE IT.
>> YES, THEY THINK IT'S SOMETHING REAL SPECIAL.
>> IT IS REAL SPECIAL.
>> YES, IT IS.
>> THE RAVIOLIS WILL BE SERVED WITH A SIDE OF CARAMELIZED ONIONS, BUT BEFORE THE RAVIOLIS ARE ADDED TO THE PLATE, THEY NEED TO BE FRIED ON EACH SIDE FOR A MINUTE OR TWO.
>> WE WILL JUST ADD THESE TO THE PAN.
AND YOU CAN SEE THAT IS JUST STARTING TO BROWN A BIT.
>> OH, YEAH.
>> AGAIN THE BROWN BUTTER HAS THE NUTY FLAVOR IN THERE.
NOW WE ARE GOING TO LET THESE COOK FOR JUST ONE SECOND.
IF I TRY TO PULL THEM UP RIGHT NOW BEFORE THEY DEVELOP A NICE CRUST ON THE BOTTOM, THERE IS A GOOD CHANCE THAT THEY ARE GOING TO TEAR, SO WE ARE GOING TO LET THEM SIT THERE AND HAVE A BIT OF PATIENCE.
>> AND IT ALSO IS GOING TO GIVE IT THAT TEXTURE, TOO.
>> NICE AND CRISPY LIKE FRIED PASTA.
EVERYBODY LOST FRIED PASTA.
>> EXCEPT YOUR PERSONAL TRAINER.
>> YES, YES.
>> I DON'T HAVE ONE OF THOSE YET.
I AM LOOKING FOR ONE, THOUGH.
ALL RIGHT.
>> CAN I ADD THE SAUCE NOW?
>> LET'S DO THAT.
>> ALL RIGHT.
>> IT'S A BEAUTIFUL MORRELL CREAM.
ALL RIGHT SO NOW THESE HAVE A GOOD SEER ON ONE SIDE, AND WE WILL FLIP THEM OVER.
>> THAT'S NICE.
>> A LITTLE ON THAT SIDE.
>> SO YOU JUST ARE WARMING THEM UP?
>> YES.
>> THAT'S NICE.
>> YOU CAN REALLY FEEL THAT.
TEXTURE-WISE, IT'S LIKE -- >> NICE AND CRISPY.
>> LIKE CRISPY BACON.
>> THERE WE GO, BEAUTIFUL.
>> PERFECT, AND YOU WILL HAVE A LOT OF FLAVORS, AND THESE ARE ALL THE UNDERTONES OF EARTHY FLAVORS.
>> YES.
SO HERE WE ARE, WE HAVE TWO FANTASTIC PLATES.
WHERE SHOULD I DIVE IN FIRST?
>> SO, I GUESS THAT I WOULD GO WITH THE SALAD FIRST.
>> I WILL HAVE TO TRY IT.
>> OKAY.
>> GET A BIT OF THAT VINAIGRETTE.
FANTASTIC!
THAT CHEESE REALLY CUTS THROUGH EVERYTHING.
AND A BIT OF THIS.
FOR BEING SO CRISPY, IT CUTS THROUGH REALLY, REALLY NICELY.
>> AGAIN, THAT'S THE NICE THING OF FRESH PASTA.
>> IT'S LIKE A MUSHROOM EXTRAVAGANZA.
YOU TASTE IT IN THE PASTA.
>> IT'S INCREDIBLE.
IT'S INCREDIBLE.
>> BOTH THE ENDIVE SALAD AND THE PAN SEARED RAVIOLIS, TRULY BOAST THE UNIQUE FLAVORS OF THE NORTHEAST KINGDOM WITH THEIR FANTASTIC WINE SELECTION AND COMFORTABLE ATMOSPHERE, ELEMENTS IS THE PERFECT PLACE TO DINE IF YOU ARE IN SEARCH OF OUTSTANDING CUISINE MADE WITH FRESH, LOCAL PRODUCTS.
REGARDLESS OF WHERE YOU ARE COMING FROM, IT'S WELL WORTH THE DRIVE.
>> AS LOCAL FOOD BECOMES MORE ACCESSIBLE AND CONSUMER DEMAND INCREASES IT'S EASIER FOR CHEFS TO COMMIT TO COOKING WITH LOCAL PRODUCTION.
AT THE RIVERVIEW CAFE, CHEF TRISTAN TALINO PROVIDE AS SATISFYING, CASUAL DINING EXPERIENCE THAT SHOWCASES LOCAL FARMERS WHILE KEEPING YOUR POCK BOOK IN CHECK.
>> NESTLED ON THE BANKS OF THE CONNECTICUT RIVER, THE RIVERVIEW CAFE IN BRATTLEBORO, VERMONT HAS COMBINED GREAT TASTE WITH EXTRAORDINARY BUSINESS.
THE CHEF OWNER, TRISTAN, ACQUIRED HIS EXPERTISE IN NEW YORK CITY, BUT DECIDED TO RETURN HOME TO HIS GREEN MOUNTAIN ROOTS AND OPEN THE CAFE IN APRIL OF 2000.
BRATTLEBORO, WHICH WAS EXPERIENCING A CULTURAL REBIRTH AT THE TIME, SEEMED LIKE A PERFECT LOCATION TO START A FAMILY-OWNED BUSINESS.
>> IT'S A REAL PRIVILEGE TO HAVE A FAMILY-OWNED BUSINESS IN VERMONT.
I THINK IT CONNECTS TO THE LONG TRADITION OF VERMONT INDEPENDENT BUSINESSES.
THE MOTIVATION TO COME TO WORK EVERY DAY AND ENJOY WHAT I DO -- I AM PASSIONATE ABOUT FOOD, AND I AM PASSIONATE ABOUT THE PEOPLE THAT WE SERVE AND THE PEOPLE THAT WORK FOR US.
>> THE CHEF IS ALSO PASSIONATE ABOUT INCORPORATING FRESH, LOCALLY GROWN FOODS INTO HIS MENU.
>> I THINK THAT WHAT WE HAVE DONE HERE AT THE RIVERVIEW CAFE IS TRY TO OCCUPY A MIDDLE GROUND WHERE WE WANT TO BE A CASUAL RESTAURANT WHERE PEOPLE CAN COME IN AND FEEL COMFORTABLE, BUT ALSO, BE SOMETHING A BIT MORE, AND THAT'S WHERE WE, YOU KNOW, WHEN WE HAVE A GOAT CHEESE SALAD WITH VERMONT APPLES, YOU KNOW, VERMONT GOAT CHEESE, WE HAVE OUR CHEDDAR ALE SOUP, WHICH HAS BEEN ALMOST FROM THE BEGINNING AN EXCELLENT SELLER, AND THAT IS GRAFTON CR CRE -- A GRAFTON CEDH BEER TO GIVE IT A KICK.
>> AND VERMONT CHICKEN, VERMONT ARTTON BREAD AND MAPLE SYRUP ARE ALWAYS AVAILABLE ON THE RIVERVIEW CAFE MENU.
THEY HAVE MADE A COMMITMENT TO USING LOCAL PRODUCTS IN THE RESTAURANT, NOT ONLY DOES THE FOOD TASTE GRACE, BUT ALSO THIS HELPS AND KEEPS THE AGRICULTURAL COMMUNITY SUSTAINABILITY AND VIBRANT.
>> THE MOST POWERFUL COUNTER BALANCING ACTIVITY IS THE VERMONT CONSUMER BEING ENGAGED IN BUYING FROM THEIR NEIGHBORS AND ENCOURAGING, OR CREATING OPPORTUNITIES FOR PEOPLE TO DO SMALL THINGS THAT CAN GROW BIGGER AND GET INTO MAINTAINING THE ACTIVE, USEFUL LAND.
IF YOU GIVE A FARMER A BIT OF A CUSHION, THEY CAN EXPAND WHAT THEY PRODUCE OR TRY A NEW PRODUCT, AND THEY MIGHT FIND THAT PRODUCT MOVES REALLY WELL AT THE FARMERS MARKET, SO MAYBE I DON'T GET IT, BUT THEY KNOW THAT IF IT DOESN'T MOVE WELL, THEY HAVE AN OUTLET FOR IT, AND I FEEL LIKE THAT IS A BIG PART OF IT.
ALSO WE REACH A LOT OF CONSUMERS, AND SO IF CONSUMERS SEE US DOING THESE THINGS, YOU KNOW, WE REACHED A LOT OF CONSUMERS AND HAVE AN OPPORTUNITY TO TELL THE STORY OF LOCAL FOOD DIFFERENTLY THAN SAY A SUPERMARKET DOES.
>> THE ALLURE OF THE RIVERVIEW CAFE HAS DRAWN DINE 49ERS AROUND DINERS FROMAROUND NEW ENGLAND, N APPEAL TO DINE IN A LOCAL VENUE.
>> THE CONSUMERS WANT TO CONNECT TO VERMONT, AND IF A RESTAURANT IS ABLE TO BE OUT FRONT WITH WHAT IS VERMONT ABOUT THAT RESTAURANT IT, GIVES THEM AN OPPORTUNITY TO CONNECT.
>> FROM APRIL TO OCTOBER, THE LARGE ROOFTOP DECK OFFERS VIEWS OF THE CONNECTICUT RIVER AND IS A COMMUNITY GATHERING SPOT.
IT IS GRATIFYING FOR HIM TO SEE HIS GUESTS MOTIVATED TO LEARN MORE ABOUT VERMONT PRODUCTS AND WHAT THEY CAN BUY LOCALLY.
HE DECIDED TO USE THE BACK PAGE OF HIS MENU TO INFORM HIS DINERS NOT ONLY WHERE THE FOOD ORIGINATED BUT ALSO LET THEM KNOW HOW MUCH MONEY IS PUT BACK INTO THE COMMUNITY.
>> I FEEL LIKE RESTAURANTS HAVE A UNIQUE OPPORTUNITY TO HELP CONNECT THE DOTS FOR CONSUMERS BETWEEN THE LAND USE, THE LIFESTYLE, AND THE HEALTHY CHOICES THAT PEOPLE CAN MAKE BY BUYING LOCAL, AND I FEEL LIKE RESTAURANTS ARE AT LISTS FOR CONSUMER ENTHUSIASM AND GIVES, YOU KNOW, IF WE DO OUR JOBS WELL, WE ARE HELPING EDUCATE THE CONSUMERS BY GIVING THEM SOMETHING TO THEM THAT THEY REALLY ENJOY.
>> FOR MORE INFORMATION ON THESE OR ANY OTHER SEGMENTS, VISIT ON OUR WEBSITE AT VPD.ORG.VPT.ORG.
REMEMBER, EAT HEALTHY AND BUY LOCAL, I'M SEAN SEAN.
SEE YOU NEXT TIME, I'M SEAN BUCHANAN.
>> IT'S LIKE A MUSHROOM EXTRAVAGANZA.
YOU CAN TASTE IT IN THE PASTA, THE SAUCE.
IT'S INCREDIBLE.
>> THERE PROGRAM WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY A GRANT FROM THE UNITED STATES DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE, RURAL DEVELOPMENT.
>> FOR MORE CLASSIC PROGRAMS, VISIT VERMONTPBS.ORG/FROMTHEARCHIVES.
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